Knowing Propane Heaters And Its Uses

in General Outdoor Advice

The main purpose of propane heater is to heat up a specific area. They are convenient to handle and portable enough to move easily. Propane heaters are mostly suitable for garages, warehouse and patios those are not well insulated. Propane heaters mainly utilize pressurized gas and they are self-contained as well. Hence, they do not need to use electricity or gas line additionally. These days’ people are using Propane heaters to warm up their home and office space.

Manufacturer companies make propane heater in different types and sizes. British Thermal Units (BTU) mainly rates propane heater. Thus the measurement of energy output is measured in BTU. Here size of the area plays an important role for the consumption of energy. If your area is 100 square feet the output of energy will be 10,000 BTUs. The larger area will take more energy indeed.

One of the popular types of propane gas heater is portable propane heater. People prefer to use this for its convenient features. This type of propane heaters are made with wheels, that makes it easy to move around. However they also come with a tank of propane gas which is convenient as well. You just will be needed to attach the heater with the tank and light up whenever you want to use it. Electricity or vent is not necessary to use.

propane heaterUsually there are two types of portable propane heater that can be found in the market, Tall and Small. The tall type of portable heater is commonly known as Torchiere and it is suitable for parties, patios, towns or decks. Torchiere is usually covered with shield. On the other hand, small type portable heater is as like as small box and handy to move. This type of heater is also known as convection heater or radiant heater and they are suitable for workshops, garages, shades etc.

However, if you are interested to set up the propane heater permanently you will be needed to go with another type. They can be installed easily on the wall, ceiling or floor. Some of them featured with fans to force air and disperse warm air. An electrical outlet is needed to run on the fan. These are pretty large in size and need a vent. Apart from that you will be needed to ensure proper supply of oxygen to keep the service uninterrupted. In fact, propane gas needs oxygen to burn. Therefore, it is important to keep the heater in a suitable place where oxygen is available.

Usually propane heaters are made with a metal tank and the propane is stored in here. But the size of tank depends on the heater and its capacity. Larger size of heater comes with large tank. However, the tanks made with portable option are smaller in size and can be moved easily to refill in the nearest gas station.

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Electric Underfloor heating

I have a 1988 liquid (water) underfloor heating system heated from a conventional oil boiler. The main system was from a 6 branch manifold where each branch fed through a PARRALEL network of pipes under a certain house floor plan section. The manufacturer likened it to ‘radiator’ sections under the floor. I now see that this is totally crap as water (or most things) flows through point of least resistance and therefore, this allows sediment to build up in ‘radiator’ sections under the floor. Last time this happened when we changed from a Rayburn solid fuel boiler to the oil boiler, we managed to clear most (if not all) the sections by feeding the circuits with some sludge remover liquid over some weeks and then refilling with some preventative solution. That was around 6 years ago and it’s been OK since then. This last work has been caried out by ‘ someone who knows everything’ and now the stystem is blocked because he did not flush the system through and treat with preventative. ????. Yes, I have tried to disconnect each end of a branch pipe and individually let the water flow through with the 2 Bar pressure from the system. It trickles through so I guessed that the longer it could keep trickling, then the fernox that I had put in would eventually loosen the scale and it would dissolve into the liquid to be flushed out. . The danger though comes from when I tried to pressure wash through a larger 15mm flow and return pipe to an extension. The silt just backed up against a blockage and the pressure ‘blew’ the pvc pipe (fortunately) just where the pipe entered the concrete floor. I obviously do not want to run the risk of blowing any of the joints in the parallel system under my main floor and therefore am wondering if anyone knows how to create a vacuum on the other end of the pipe to draw the residue out. I imagine something with a drop cannister/box to drop sediment into and yet be able to top up the vacuum as the 2 bars pressure pushes from flow side. Anybody??. By the way, the plumber who has recently moved the boiler is blaming the stainless steel inserts in the platic pipes for creating the sediment and says that now they are not being used and plastic ones are being used instead.. My own research suggests that filth and residue arises from when any work is done on a system and needs flushing out with the cleanser solution (as was done in 2000 when my Rayburn was changed for an oil boiler). The system then was fitted with the protecting solution and all was fine.. How comes my local builders supply has just supplied me with two stainless steel inserts if my plumbers words are true?. I thought that corrosion from steel radiators, boiler parts and residue from plumbing connections created this silt.. . He also infers that all these underfloor heating systems installed over the last 20 years will create the next 20 years work for plumbers to install conventional radiators systems again.. Thoughts???.

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